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Vogue: DSM is often described as a place that works in a fundamentally different way from conventional retail. What is most important and useful about doing things differently rather than following established retail logic? Adrian: It’s not so much as doing things differently for the sake of it, it’s more like realizing that invention, creation, discovery, wisdom simply cannot be born from any status quo, let alone established retail logic. Only through curiosity and exploration and doing away with preconceptions can progress be achieved. Nothing ever revolutionarily mind-blowing came out of following established anything. Dickon: We often talk about balancing creativity and commerciality, and the virtue of not being bound by convention nor orthodox thinking. And while we are a business, of course, one thing that I have learnt in the 21 years of Dover Street is the importance of creation thanks to Kawakubo-san and her approach: something deeper than pure commerce, something with spirit and authenticity, something with a soul. Remo: I guess that we have kind of created our own rules and logic? While our seasonal changeover — when we close our stores for a few days to install the new season’s merchandise, called tachiagari — does not follow conventional logic, it has become an incredibly useful way for us to create excitement at the beginning of the season around our collections. It’s important to keep questioning what we do and not become comfortable with the status quo.

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