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In Deborah Davis’s 2003 book Strapless (a fascinating read), the author definitively attributes it to Maison Félix. The Metropolitan Museum’s Elizabeth L. Block, who has written extensively about the house, is slightly more cautious, writing that “The draw of Félix for women who traveled in artistic circles supports the view that Virginie Amélie Avegno Gautreau wears a Félix dress in John Singer Sargent’s famous painting of 1883–84, Madame X.” There is a contemporary report that links Gautreau to Maison Felix, renowned for its attenuated silhouettes. Although a competitor with the House of Worth—which is now being celebrated with an exhibition in Paris—Maison Félix has been relegated to the sidelines of fashion history, this despite the house being called “a shrine” when it closed in 1901. Although Vogue was founded eight years after Madame X made her debut, it’s there I started digging deeper. A Félix dress was featured in the magazine’s first issue, dated December 17, 1892. Block’s article was a foundational source as were periodical and book archives. From these I have created an impressionistic time line of the history of the house and its intersection with Gautreau. As you’ll read, the roots of the house are in hair. Coiffeur Joseph-Augustin Escalier, known as Félix, a favorite of Empress Eugenie, established the business as in 1846 and it came into the hands of brother hair dressers Auguste Poussineau and Émile Martin Poussineau, about 11 years later. The duo added millinery and then dressmaking to their activities and became known for attiring not only aristocrats and fashion leaders but some of the most famous actresses of the day, chief among them Sarah Bernhardt.

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