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In line with De Meyer’s assessment, Vogue reported: “As recently as last year, the imperious cry of, ‘Be distinctive, be individual at all costs’ was heard by some of the purveyors of beauty and the chintz colors were lowered and the colors of Monsieur Poiret were unfurled.” “Ours is a generation of Bakst and Paul Poiret and Gaby Deslys, and we crave color,” Vogue wrote during the gray days off wartime. Even in his absence Vogue observed “the hand of Poiret in the fashions…. Always an advocate of the straight silhouette, Poiret stands by his guns; but he is not alone, —all houses are of the same mind.” Yet even the optimistic Poiret (or his team) could ignore the war entirely, reported Jeanne Ramon Fernandez. “To see at Poiret’s costumes which do not surprise by their audacity is, it must be admitted, something very new,” she reported. “But present conditions had a sobering influence too strong for even Poiret to escape, and, as might have been foreseen, he has been quick to note that the adaptation of the costume to the conditions under which it is worn is more than ever necessary.”

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